Tunnel Vision
The senior population of Japan has always impressed me. They are active, involved, spirited and healthy. Walking through a small village this morning we saw an elderly lady in her late 80’s. Hunched over, she pushed her chair cart down the street with vigor. Her shuffling pace had purpose. Watching her move down the narrow street a jovial “hello” interrupted my thoughts. A very enthusiastic grey-haired gentleman came out of his car to greet us. The usual Doko Kara Kimashita Ka? (where are you from) and many other questions ensued. We answered best we could, but we must have misunderstood his final question. When we replied Yes, he took off and disappeared behind his garage, emerging seconds later with a folding chair.
“Ladies first” he said in English and pointed to the chair.
He left again returning with a second chair.
As we settled in he asked “Orange juice or Tea?”
“Tea for me” was my response. “Yes” he affirmed
“Hot or cold?”
“Cold please” .
“Yes” then an immediate “No, Only hot.” And with a smile he was gone.
Voices and noises from the kitchen continued for awhile. In my head a picture of a patient wife rolling her eyes with a frustrated smile as she thinks, “Here he goes again”.
Our host reemerged with a tray full of drinks and treats, but no wife. We shared conversation limited by language but rich in understanding. We learned he is retired. His daughter was in, or near San Diego for two weeks. He would like to go on a cruise in Miami but it is expensive. He will go to the store later to buy some things for Kids Day (May 5th Japanese national holiday celebrating children). He’s been to France and loved it.
On the tray was a book. He picked it up. Inside was a calendar filled with names. He asked for us to write ours inside todays box, May 5th. Proudly he showed us entries from other global pilgrims. The Swedish addition made him especially happy. With our names included, we became a collection of his memories, and perhaps an opportunity for him to travel without leaving his home. As we gathered our belongings to leave, a shuffling sound grew in the distance. It was the senior lady with the cart. Her bags full of groceries. Mission complete.
Further up the route a tunnel and a decision. At one kilometer this long tunnel would be faster. At three kilometers, the mountainous climb around the tunnel would be harder. My vote was for tunnel. Matt the climb. A coin toss would decide. Heads! Tunnel wins. This would be our first tunnel station of the pilgrimage. There is protocol for these long, dark, heavily trafficked tunnels. On each side is a metal box containing a sign in book and reflective bands. On one side pilgrims take a band and register their names inside the book. Once through the tunnel the bands get returned to a similar box. Once across pilgrims leave their ofuda (name cards) in the box as a thank you for safe passage.
Our passage was safe but not pleasant for either of us, especially when that one semi got a little too close for comfort.
Passing a dog grooming business on the route, a lady ran out to confirm for us that the upcoming nature trail was “OK”, however we should be aware to stay hidari, or to the left. “hidari hidari, always keep hidari” she told us. We vigilantly stayed left. However somehow passed our turn and had to backtrack. Once on the beautiful quiet forest path we continued to watch for markers, which were scarce. Matt picked up one that had fallen to the ground. He left his own addition to it, his osettai pin from Temple 31. As he was repositioning the sign, a Korean pilgrim couple came through, looked at his work and with a thank you vanished into the woods. Further up the trail a large group of workers were stacking cut wood. They were stuffing the holes in the logs with something that looked like styrofoam?
We passed by a recently abandoned temple. It was overgrown with lush green shrubs. Aside from the missing gate bell, many other artifacts remained, dusty but untouched. It’s hard not to wonder the story of this temple.
The ice cream rule was in our favor for a second day in a row. This time with a bonus side of sweet bean cake osettai. The vendor asked where we were from. People seem to enjoy hearing “California”. There is always a pause, then the understanding nod finished off with smiles and ahhhhhs.
By lunch we were ready for another Joyfull meal. Unfortunately the directions in our good book seemed to be taking us in frustrating circles. Maybe we were just getting hangry? Matt retained his title of master of maps and eventually found our favorite restaurant. Inside it was full of families celebrating kids day. We had another oishi (delicious) tuna bowl and many trips to the, all you can consume, drink bar.
Today 2:00pm would mark the end of our walking day. We found a spot on at the River Side Camp Site and pitched our tent. A handful of families were already BBQ’ing, paddle boarding and fishing on the last days of Golden Week. Unaccustomed to finishing so early, we found ourselves with time to be idle. But idleness is not for people who have spent close to a month walking non-stop. After setting up our tent we went to explore Ozu City. We placed our pilgrim hats on top of the tent and all our belongings inside unsecured. Only in Japan could this scenario work. We soaked our tired feet in the ice cold waters of the river, walked through the antique alleyways of the city, stopped by an old museum with retro cars, and walked up to a hillside shrine. Everyone unwinds at different degrees. For me it takes a little longer sometimes. Visiting all the places we did this afternoon would not necessarily be something I would do on my own. Matts scenarios are always appreciated.
Two hours later we return to camp, exactly they way we left it. Sitting on the beach we pulled out our convenience store dinners and a couple of Coronas. It may be children day in Japan, but in Borrego Springs, California our friends were celebrating with a Cinco de Mayo party. We toasted to them and headed to our tent for an early evening.
Throughout the day I felt lost (not literally but metaphorically). At almost halfway through the 88 temples my monsters came to visit. Questions like “What am I doing in life” surfaced to scare me. There is some comfort in entertaining the beasts. They are weak and can be overpowered but still they visit often. This afternoon on the forest walk to Ozu City my bell kept reminding me to be in the moment. I realized that I could continue to entertain my monsters, or listen to the sound of my bell.
Goodbye monsters. Ring on bell.
May 4, 2016 - Enroute to Temple 44
